Tuesday, Sept. 12 
Countryside near Takeo 

  At a gas station we asked, pointing at our map, how to get on the back road to Takeo, and a young man drew us a map and went over it and over it until we said, "Wakari mashta" ("I understand"). His directions turned out to be a little off the mark, but Rick figured out where to turn to put us on this shortcut. 
  Finally, after 33 miles, we were on a quiet road, surrounded by lush green farm fields and wooded hills, and there were even signs in English for Takeo. 

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  When we got close to Takeo, we took a roadside break and polished off the rest of our snack food from the night before. 
 
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