Friday, Sept. 22 
Mud bath 

  It started to rain as we completed our Hell Tour and biked off in search of Hoyo Land. We got confused and stopped in a European-style bakery and coffee shop for directions -- and delicious pastries and rolls. We weren't far off course. 
 
 
Hoyo Land
  Hoyo Land was the most expensive onsen of our trip, about $10.50 per person. It wasn't crowded, and naked men and women walked around unselfconsciously among the different pools. As we stepped into the main outdoor pool, the soft, slippery mud underfoot came as a surprise. Smoothing it on the skin felt good. 
  The rain let up as we biked back to Beppu Youth Hostel to get our panniers. Then it was all downhill to the waterfront. 

 
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